Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro

While I have many years experience with shooting film w/ slr's, this is my first dslr, and although it's nearly an antique by todays standards I highly recommend it for those just getting into digital slr's. Easy to learn and easy to use. Durabilty seems top notch so far and the multitude of Nikon and third party lenses and accesories (new and used) also make it a great starter camera. Image quailty is fantastic, as so many others have already stated - even by 2008 standards.

Durability
Picture quality
Ease of use
price
documentation

Size - this camera has a BIG body! Big enough that it won't fit in many standard size camera cases. The best fit I've found for an "over the shoulder" bag is the Lowepro Nova 3 as it is wide enough to accomodate the bodyw/ lens attached

Image storage - the S2pro will NOT accept anything bigger than a 2gig CF-2 or memory stick (but a 2g will hold about 1500 jpg shots or 150 RAW -TIFF)

Focus can be slow and get confused at times, usually not a big deal, but I've missed a few "grab" shots because it was searching

No "matrix mode" light sensor - while it has one, Fuji highly reccomends you not use it, instead use spot or center weighted meter modes

none
I have used Canon and Olympus "point & shoot" cameras up to 7 megapixel and this blows them away hands down. I've also used Mamiya and Minolta film slr's and the fuji is much easier to learn and shoot with.

No experience w/ customer service but online documentation is extensive from http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportProduct.do?prodcat=507205

Recording is possible in high-quality 6 megapixel and 12 megapixel JPEG images (compression algorithm utilized by an in camera processor) which will produce remarkable images for true-color balance and saturation due to a revolutionary sensor design created by Fuji. The camera also offers the 12 Megapixel CCD-RAW image format (raw camera sensor data) for use in processing outside of the camera via PC or Macintosh image processing programs like Adobe PhotoShop or Elements. Included is a Hyper-Utility for RAW image conversions if you do not have image editing software which can read the RAW data. Comprehension of the systems white balance configuration is key in obtaining true and high quality colors in any compressed end image. Camera-RAW data can be corrected via software programs but is much more difficult to do if data is not close to good from the start.

Finest color rendering CCD sensor on the market. This camera utilizes a Nikon AI/AIS compatible mount for all those photographers heavily invested in legacy Nikon systems they will find many of their older lenses will work with this body in manual focus mode. This camera is an excellent studio camera which works nicely with many different flash units (I have an older Sunpak 555 which is great together) with a provided synch cord port. Bigger studio flash power packs should always be utilized with wireless trip transmitters/receivers. Otherwise they can overpower the cameras circuitry. This camera has the right stuff to handle all but the most rapid sports photography. Key to sports work is anticipation.

The real drawback is in the systems battery/power configuration and the camera is sometimes finnicky with the CR123 Lithium batteries used to power the built-in pop-up flash and camera top mount control display. Recommended are "AA" NiMH rechargeable batteries for the sled and you may want to consider a grip system in place of the flash's Lithium batteries if you are planning on using the built-in flash quite a bit? Personally, I consider the built-in flash only as an emergency light source. But another battery system in place of the lithiums adds more weight to an already heavy camera. Personally, I consider the built-in flash only as an emergency light source. Although, the S2 can make use of through-the-lens (TTL) flash metering with many of the Nikon SB flash units. Check the manufacturer for specific flash compatibility. If you want a faster but less color dynamic camera for sports work, I'd suggest a Nikon D100 or D1X now in this approximate range as used cameras.

Nikon D70, Nikon D80, and other S2 Pro bodies.

Really fast and comprehensive service from Fuji USA. Have had cracked body part replaced and always get a complete clean, and adjust along with any firmware updates available. If you damage a part of this camera expect to pay $450.00 (USD) for part replacement, clean and adjust. But at least you have a Fuji Warranty on the work (90 Days). Try and get any guarantees on used equipment otherwise.

I have used the Fuji S2 since November, 2002 after using a used Fuji S1 for several months before that. I was impressed by the image quality of the S1 compared to the D100 at the time, and opted for the S2 as the better-quality alternative.

At the time I bought my S2, the high price tag forced me to sell my S1, a choice I haven't regretted.

This camera has served me well all this time, and although I also own a Nikon D70S body, I prefer the quality of the images and shooting ease of the Fuji S2.

The time has come, however, for me to re-evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of using two platforms (Fuji and Nikon). I'll soon be adding a third digital body to my arsenal, and with the recent announcement of the Fuji S5 Pro due out in February, it will be a tough choice between that body and the Nikon D200. Although that situation is different altogether, the strengths and weaknesses below may determine whether I keep the S2 as a backup or whether I decide to say goodbye to an old friend.

Please read on...

Parry

In the field, the greatest strengh of this camera is the use of flash. Most Nikon-compatible TTL flashes will work with this body, including my Metz 54MZ-3 -- it won't even fire with my D70S or a D200, as those bodies require an i-TTL compatible flash.

Next, JPG images straight from the camera are unmatched in quality. If shot correctly in 12MP mode, the quality difference between converted RAW files is negligible in most cases -- colours are excellent in any controlled light or in correctly calibrated custom white balance situations.

The rear button layout is almost identical to the Fuji S1 and S3 bodies, which is a bonus that unfortunately will be lost in the future S5.

Exposures are typically 1/3-stop underexposed. I typically leave the exposure compensation at + 1/3 and forget about it. The downside, however, is that you might end up with blown-out highlights, but this is a reasonable consequence of obaining a better-exposed image. If I'm not entirely sure, or I don't have the time to check every exposure, I'll often switch to RAW and worry about exact exposure during post-processing.

Post-processing is SSSSLLLLLOOOOOOWWWWWWW !!!! The EX Convertor software takes forever with every shot -- another reason to shoot JPGs when possible. As well, the software doesn't convert RAW files directly to JPG -- you have to create TIF files first (memory hogs, but necessary to create JPG proofs), and then convert those to JPG. Adobe CS2 RAW is a much better option unless you work with one image at a time for the very best quality. This workflow bottleneck is the primary reason why I'm considering switching to a Nikon D200.

Focussing is also very slow, even with a normally fast-focussing lens like my Nikkor 80-200 f2.8D. This isn't much of a problem for portraiture, but for anything fast-moving like sports, this is a real problem -- especially if you also consider that the continuous shooting speed is also slow (approx. 1.7 fps, not the rated 2 fps). Note also that Fuji has not yet published the frame rate of the S5 -- my bet is that it won't be as fast as the 5 fps D200, but it has to be an improvement on the S2 or S3.

Also, don't use ISO 1600 unless you cannot get a shot any other way. At this speed, there are vertical noise bands on most images, especially those that are underexposed. Raw images show at ISO 1600 are better, but not usually good enough to use beyond small print size. I expect the Fuji S5 to be a much better performer in this regard -- a key factor over the D200 for me when the time comes to choose.

The only other problem I've witnessed is a sudden freeze-up of the camera when used with flash. Although rare, when this situation happens it can be quite unnerving. I was quite happy using one digital body until this happened at a wedding and I was forced to shoot film (*gasp*!!!) until I figured out the problem and reset the camera and flash. Now I realize that this might be due to the voltage differences of a third-party flash (Metz), but this kind of problem shouldn't happen. I haven't had a flash problem like this with proprietary Nikon equipment -- another plus for the D200 over the S5, as either way, I'll need to buy an i-TTL flash like the SB-800.

Nikon D70S
Fuji S1 Pro
Nikon D100
Kodak DSC/N

In comparison to 35mm, I mostly miss the large bright viewfinder and the full-field 24x36mm format. My $1000 18-35mm lens is only a semi-wide to normal zoom on an APS-sized sensor. My hope was that the S5 would be a full-format sensor with a cropped option, similar to the high-speed crop of the Nikon D2X.

I had also tried out the full-field Kodak DSC-N body, but since I wear glasses, the extra 1/4-inch protrusion of the digital part of that body made it difficult to shoot. Also, since Kodak no longer produces DSLRs, questionable future service from Kodak makes me leery of that product.

Considering that a used Fuji S2 can be found for between $400 and $700 CDN in good working order, this is either a steal for first-time DSLR owners (hence the good value rating below) or a detriment to those like me who may wish to sell their existing Fuji S2 Pro. In the meantime, I'll continue to use this body, as I'm still impressed by the results, and the quality of the image is still the bottom line, as I firmly believe that it is the PHOTOGRAPHER who takes a picture, not the camera.

No problems to date.

When I had first purchased the camera, it was new without a box (stolen from the camera store in a break-in -- the thieves thought they had the complete kit), but Fuji was kind enough to replace the deluxe software, which they knew was included with my body as cross-referenced by the serial number.

The CCD is amazingly easy to clean with special CCD swabs -- I didn't have a problem with dust until this past year and was afraid to clean it myself until recently. No regrets here, but I do think other bodies are more difficult to clean because of filters over the CCDs.

Solid CCD for color interpretation. Utilizes either Compact Flash I or II along with SmartMedia which is limited to 128Mb cards. Compatible with earlier Nikon AI lenses although TTL metering is useless as would be TTL flash units with the earlier non-electronic lenses (manual focus). Strengths are size of CCD and color interpretation, I would rank this camera right up with Sony for color rendering. I think Sony has done the best color interpretation job around for an out-of-the-box camera. It's drawbacks are it's quirky operation when using run down or poorly charged CrO2 batteries which power the display of controls and onboard flash (never use the onboard flash)! Sometimes it won't even turn on if the batteries are run down and sometimes it just shuts down after turning it on for five seconds. Best recording format is RAW but limited to FAT16 Compact Flash I & II's up to 1Gb in size. SmartMedia only comes in 128Mb size! The other thing I don't see as a strength is the size of the camera. There is no built-in image stabilization, so put it on a tripod (should have re-inforced the base where the tripod mounts too)! Got to have a whole fist full of those to shoot many images in RAW format. With good batteries and Nikon AF/DX or E series lenses this camera performs very well. Try a Nikon SB-24 Flash Unit too that works nicely as a TTL flash.

Strengths are size of CCD and color interpretation, I would rank this camera right up with Sony for color rendering. I think Sony has done the best color interpretation job around for an out-of-the-box camera. Compatible with earlier Nikon AI lenses although TTL metering is useless as would be TTL flash units with the earlier non-electronic lenses (which are also manual focus). Best recording format is RAW but limited to FAT16 Compact Flash I & II's up to 1Gb in size. Software includes a RAW convertor if you don't already use PhotoShop CS-2.

It's drawbacks are it's quirky operation when using run down or poorly charged CrO2 batteries which power the display of controls and onboard flash (never use the onboard flash)! Sometimes it won't even turn on if the batteries are run down and sometimes it just shuts down after turning it on for five seconds. There is no built-in image stabilization, so put it on a tripod (should have re-inforced the base where the tripod mounts too)! You might do well to consider the Nikon D200 after it's been out on the market for a while and the street price comes down to what a new S2 sold for. Even the D200 over the newer Fuji S3.

Fujifilm S1
FujifilmS7000

It's virtually non-existent. Fuji America needs to do a lot to improve their customer service.

i bought this s2 pro for over 2 yrs now, and i love it very much, its replace my canon 300d, 300d is now my back up cam.s2 got great ccd, for better dynamic range, colors are saturated, and great sharpness..i can buy and use any nikon lenses on s2 too..very smooth shutter slap.a pro feel. i added the battery grip on s2, for more batt life.i use 2 tokina lenses with s2, the 28-70mm pro f2.8atx and the 80-200mm atx pro f2.8, plus the sigma 15-30mm f3.5 gold ring..a nice set up.ive sold all my nikon lenses to replace with these 3 lenses. strongly suggest to anyone.

super ccd is a great stuff for much better dynamic range. great colors and sharpness.use all nikon lenses.fuji knows colors.

batts life can be better, need less batts will help the weigh.changing iso can be easier. need batt grip.

canon and nikon

none so far.